tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-49268679495088155082024-03-20T03:07:54.856-07:00Heat Treating SteelHTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16161678004194351428noreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4926867949508815508.post-80838501953492366832010-12-18T19:15:00.000-08:002010-12-18T19:17:40.558-08:00Properly Heat Treating ATS-34 using an oil quench method<span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong>ATS-34 Oil quenching process. The oil should be warm and thin at the time of quenching it should also have a safe flash point. Some prefer to use olive oil rather than petroleum based quenching oils because of it's higher flash point. It is common practice to have one gallon of quenching oil for each pound of steel. To warm the oil before quenching simply heat a piece of scrap steel and drop it into the oil. </strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong>To begin... </strong></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong>wrap the piece in stainless tool wrap and leave an extra two inches on each end of the package (This will be for handling purposes). A double wrap is suggested for this grade. The foil should be double crimped around the edges. Note: be careful to not tear or puncture the wrap!</strong></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: blue;"> </span><span style="color: white;"><strong>Once wrapped place in the furnace and heat to 1900F. Upon reaching this temperature immediately begin timing the soak for 25 to 30 minutes. (Soak time is the amount of time the steel is held at the desired temperature; which is in this case 1900 degrees Fahrenheit) </strong></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Note:</span> <span style="color: white;">soak times will very depending on steel thickness. See formula at the bottom of page.</span></span></strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong>When the soak time is complete, very quickly but carefully take the package out with tongs, and hold over a quench tank then snip the end of the package to allow the piece to drop out in the oil. Be sure to have some kind of wire basket already placed in the quench tank to raise and lower the piece in the oil rather than have it lie still. This must be done to ensure a proper quench.</strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">NOTE:</span> <span style="color: white;">For full hardness; it is critical that the piece enter the quenching oil as quickly as possible after taking them from the furnace! </span></span></strong></span><br />
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<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">If treating a knife carefully remove it from the tool wrap and quench holding it at a non crucial point such as the rear of the tang making sure to move the blade up and down in the oil as mentioned above for a proper quench.</span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: white;"></span></strong><span style="color: blue;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;">Once the piece has been quenched down to around 125F begin the tempering process. To temper the piece it must be placed back into the furnace at 300F. Once 300F is reached allow them to soak for 2 hours. Then remove the piece and allow it to cool to room temperature.</span> </span></strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> <span style="color: white;">Some have successfully used toaster ovens to complete the tempering cycle.</span></span></strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;">To begin the second temper place the piece back in the furnace and soak for 2 hours this time at 275F. Once this step is complete remove the piece and allow it to cool. It should now be approx hardness 60 RC.</span> </span></strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> <span style="color: white;">The piece can be placed in dry ice for an hour this will add more stability and even a little extra hardness</span></span></strong></span><br />
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<strong><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6;"><strong>Note:</strong></span></span><strong> <span style="color: white;">Pre quench soak times can very to some degree. However, c</span></strong></span></span><span style="color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">ommonly one can figure about 1 hour of soak at hardening temperature per inch of steel thickness<br />
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1 inch = 1hour <br />
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1/2 inch = 30mins </span></strong></span></span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">1/4 inch = 15mins <br />
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1/8inch = 7.5mins</span></strong></span></span></strong>HTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16161678004194351428noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4926867949508815508.post-80574311531883411682010-12-15T01:35:00.000-08:002010-12-18T19:11:10.094-08:00Complete 1095 high carbon steel heat treating procedure:<span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong><span style="color: white;">Begin by wrapping the piece in stainless steel tool wrap and leave an extra two inches on each</span> end of the package (This will be for handling purposes). The foil should be double crimped around the edges. Note: be careful to not tear or puncture the wrap! </strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong>Once wrapped </strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong>place in the furnace and heat to 1450F. Upon reaching this temperature immediately begin timing the soak for 10 to 15 minutes. (Soak time is the amount of time the steel is held at the desired temperature; which is in this case 1450 degrees Fahrenheit) </strong></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Note:</span> <span style="color: white;">soak times will very depending on steel thickness. See formula at the bottom of page.</span></strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong>When the soak time is complete, very quickly but carefully take the package out with tongs, and hold over a quench tank then snip the end of the package to allow the piece to drop out into the oil. Be sure to have some kind of wire basket already placed in the quench tank to raise and lower the piece in the oil rather than have it lie still. This must be done to ensure a proper quench.</strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">NOTE:</span> For full hardness; it is critical that the piece enter the quenching oil as quickly as possible after taking them from the furnace! </strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana;">If treating a knife carefully remove it from the tool wrap and quench holding it at a non crucial point such as the rear of the tang making sure to move the blade up and down in the oil as mentioned above for a proper quench.</span></strong><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong>Once the piece has been quenched down to around 125F begin the tempering process. To temper the piece it must be placed back into the furnace at 375F. Allow them to soak for 2 hours then remove the piece and allow it to cool to room temperature. The piece should now be approx hardness 60 RC.</strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> Some have successfully used toaster ovens to complete the tempering cycle.</strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> for added stability and a little extra hardness the blades can be placed in dry ice for one hour.</strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> The oil should be warm and thin at the time of quenching it should also have a safe flash point. Some prefer to use olive oil rather than petroleum based quenching oils because of it's higher flash point. It is common practice to have one gallon of quenching oil for each pound of steel. To warm the oil before quenching simply heat a piece of scrap steel and drop it into the oil.</strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Note:</span> Pre quench soak times can very to some degree. However, commonly one can figure about 1 hour of soak at hardening temperature per inch of steel thickness<br />
i.e: <br />
1 inch = 1hour </strong></span><br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong>1/2 inch = 30mins </strong></span><br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong>1/4 inch = 15mins </strong></span><br />
<span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong>1/8inch = 7.5mins</strong></span><br />
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<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana;">hts</span></strong>HTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16161678004194351428noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4926867949508815508.post-50278233718516999472010-12-11T20:44:00.000-08:002010-12-16T21:37:56.959-08:00Part 4: Improvised heat treating techniques for knives & tools.<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">A very highly respected and well known steel among knife and tool makers and available from a large number </span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">of </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">suppliers. 0-1 grade high carbon tool steel can be easily heat treated using many of the same techniques that we covered in the previous post. In this part we will cover from start to finish the application of an improvised heat treat; using 0-1 tool steel.</span></span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Unlike the 5160 spring steel that we talked about in part 3 0-1 grade tool steel typically comes already in the annealed state; which allows the craftsman or craftswoman to immediately begin shaping the steel into the desired design. The improvised heat treating process however will remain nearly the same for this grade.</span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: black;">Step One:</span> Grind the steel to the desired shape/design. If making a knife grind/file the edge bevels and drill all handle pin holes before proceeding.</span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: black;">Step Two:</span> Prepare the fire pit and fuel as described in part 2 and allow the wood to burn down until a nice red hot bed of coal is all that's left. </span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Note:</span> Ideally the bed of hot coal should be at least 4-6 inches deep (the deeper the better)</span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: black;">Step Three:</span> Carefully place the steel on top of the coals and rake a layer over it. This will cool the coals down a little as mentioned above. Allow the steel to stay put for a while and warm up then move it to a new location in the pit and rake a new layer of coal over it. Once the steel becomes the same reddish color as the coals it should be in the 1500 degree range. Once at the temp/color allow it to soak for approx 10 minutes and quench.</span></strong><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" height="149" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYo1eEmFV9YNyEOkHAsmvYStPQrcUopsPt4KVpDdqeBt8543u0EYGhe_km5E3l3n6pDoKnmdVxBwVK1ojAecOBEurUYQ3C_1S-AaQAy_7KJPWTiyxPkXm9mg30N_k0yPPKJoqguHCBUDY/s200/Property+of+HTSteel+xx-4500000072.JPG" width="200" /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Note:</span> The cooler coals in the center where the steel is located </span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="color: white;"><br />
</span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> Place the steel in the coals just before the fire burns out to get the most out of the bed of coal</span></strong></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="color: white;"><br />
</span></div><strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> If the coals and the steel look a little too cool fan the top of the coals to bring the temperature and color into the desired range (see temp color chart).</span></strong><span style="color: white;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" height="149" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrT11-DSiR0BXkr8JWzP8RCbugG7TrZ0ElATs5trQBkbueDC6dmvE8knw0c0UBm7TZmfRtADZAx-x3AarFTRp-t1FUhTjbQti71FIMECzYWHwWm05an2soReVQ3vmxZsvgL6pwT9KT5is/s200/Property+of+HTSteel+xx-4500000973.JPG" width="200" /></span></div><strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: black;">Step Four:</span> Remove the steel from the coal and quench immediately by submerging completely in oil. Once the steel enters the oil it will begin to boil (and in most cases burst into flames and smoke profusely). Submerge the steel in the oil until the oil stops boiling then lift the steel out of the oil and submerge again repeating 3 to 4 times (submerging for 20-30 seconds each time) then place the steel on the metal rack described in part 2 for cooling. Once at room temperature it should be in the 60-63 Rockwell hardness range.</span></strong><br />
<span style="color: white;"> </span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><img border="0" height="150" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinSABt_PegcRIbpPURwzKB2O-5yHdq2oF58hymaqhqxA9g5BZMz_hxjRepvpaOjZTuVXbQrgnPoQhkakkb-daJPPP2fBCPwJ6kENt6AksyJnbcWO75BgpR4YUwn2YX0G2bIb1SIpAQnYA/s200/Property+of+HTSteel+x00-4500001.JPG" width="200" /></span></div><span style="color: white;"><br />
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<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Note:</span> see part 2 for recommended oil to steel ratio.</span></strong><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">If applying additional tempering quench the steel down to approx 125F then begin the tempering cycle immediately by heating the steel to 375F and soaking for 1 or 2 hours.</span></strong></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;"><br />
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</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><em>Keep in mind that these techniques </em></span></strong><br />
<em><span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">are for </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">applying </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">an improvised heat treat. </span></strong></span></em><br />
<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><em>Rockwell hardness is approximate</em></span></strong><br />
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</span></div>HTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16161678004194351428noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4926867949508815508.post-68893105008833893042010-12-06T21:34:00.000-08:002010-12-16T21:43:51.641-08:00Part 3: Improvised heat treating techniques for knives & tools.<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Lets talk steel. in reality there are very few steels that cannot be heat treated using old fashioned methods some will simply take a little more creativity than others. However there are steels that lend themselves nicely to these techniques such as</span></strong><br />
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<span style="color: white;"><a name='more'></a> <strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">5160 spring steel and 0-1 tool steel which we will cover here. The best part is that both of these excellent steels are readily available to anyone.</span></strong></span> <br />
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<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">We will start with 5160 high carbon spring steel</span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">5160 spring steel is a very common carbon steel used in old American vehicle leaf springs these are easily found at most salvage yards and have a typical thickness of about 1/4 inch. However the down side to this steel is that it must be annealed before use which is a process we will cover here.</span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Step one:</span> <span style="color: white;">Annealing. This is actually very easy to do with this grade steel. Simply start by preparing the fire pit and fuel as described in part 2 and allow the wood to burn down until a nice red hot bed of coal is all that's left. Then carefully place the steel on top of the coals and rake a thin layer over it. Once the coal cools (turns black) allow the steel to stay put and warm up for a few minutes then move it to a new location in the pit and rake a new layer of coals over it. When the steel turns the same color as the red hot coal let it soak for 5-10 minutes then remove and allow it to air cool; this should bring it down to a more workable hardness level.</span></span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> <span style="color: white;">Place the steel in the coals just before the fire burns out to get the most out of the bed of coal.</span></span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> <span style="color: white;">when the steel is removed for air cooling; and still red hot it can be pressed flat (straightened).</span> </span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Step two:</span> <span style="color: white;">Grind the steel to the desired shape/design. If making a knife grind/file the edge bevels and drill all handle pin holes before proceeding.</span></span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Step three:</span> <span style="color: white;">Prepare the fire pit and fuel as described in part 2 and allow the wood to burn down until a nice red hot bed of coal is all that's left. </span></span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Note:</span> <span style="color: white;">Ideally the bed of hot coal should be at least 4-6 inches deep (the deeper the better)</span></span></strong><br />
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<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Step four:</span> <span style="color: white;">Carefully place the steel on top of the coals and rake a layer over it. This will cool the coals down a little as mentioned above. Allow the steel to stay put for a while and warm up then move it to a new location in the pit and rake a new layer of coal over it. Once the steel becomes the same reddish color as the coals it should be in the 1500 degree range and ready to quench. </span></span></strong></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="color: blue;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: blue;"><img border="0" height="149" ox="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYo1eEmFV9YNyEOkHAsmvYStPQrcUopsPt4KVpDdqeBt8543u0EYGhe_km5E3l3n6pDoKnmdVxBwVK1ojAecOBEurUYQ3C_1S-AaQAy_7KJPWTiyxPkXm9mg30N_k0yPPKJoqguHCBUDY/s200/Property+of+HTSteel+xx-4500000072.JPG" width="200" /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Note:</span> </span><span style="color: white;">the cooler coals in the center where the steel is located</span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="color: blue;"><br />
</span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> <span style="color: white;">Place the steel in the coals just before the fire burns out to get the most out of the bed of coal</span></span></strong></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="color: blue;"><br />
</span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> <span style="color: white;">If the coals and the steel look a little too cool fan the top of the coals to bring the temperature and color into the desired range (see temp color chart).</span></span></strong><br />
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</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: blue;"></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: blue;"><img border="0" height="149" ox="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrT11-DSiR0BXkr8JWzP8RCbugG7TrZ0ElATs5trQBkbueDC6dmvE8knw0c0UBm7TZmfRtADZAx-x3AarFTRp-t1FUhTjbQti71FIMECzYWHwWm05an2soReVQ3vmxZsvgL6pwT9KT5is/s200/Property+of+HTSteel+xx-4500000973.JPG" width="200" /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: blue;"><br />
</span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Step five:</span> <span style="color: white;">Remove the steel from the coal and quench immediately by submerging completely in oil. Once the steel enters the oil it will begin to boil (and in most cases burst into flames and smoke profusely). Submerge the steel in the oil until the oil stops boiling then lift the steel out of the oil and submerge again repeating 3 to 4 times (submerging for 20-30 seconds each time) then place the steel on the metal rack described in part 2 for cooling. Once at room temperature it should be in the 60-62 Rockwell hardness range.</span></span></strong></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="color: blue;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: blue;"><img border="0" height="150" ox="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinSABt_PegcRIbpPURwzKB2O-5yHdq2oF58hymaqhqxA9g5BZMz_hxjRepvpaOjZTuVXbQrgnPoQhkakkb-daJPPP2fBCPwJ6kENt6AksyJnbcWO75BgpR4YUwn2YX0G2bIb1SIpAQnYA/s200/Property+of+HTSteel+x00-4500001.JPG" width="200" /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;">Quenching oil </span></div><span style="color: blue;"><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Note:</span> <span style="color: white;">see part 2 for recommended oil to steel ratio.</span></span></strong><br />
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<div style="text-align: left;"><strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Additional tempering of 5160 steel is optional</span></strong><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">If applying additional tempering quench the steel down to approx 125F then begin the tempering cycle immediately by heating the steel to 300F and soaking for 1 or 2 hours.</span></strong><br />
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<em><span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Keep in mind </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">that these techniques </span></strong></span></em><br />
<em><span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">are for </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">applying </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">an improvised heat treat. </span></strong></span></em><br />
<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><em>Rockwell hardness is approximate</em></span></strong><br />
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</span></div></div>HTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16161678004194351428noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4926867949508815508.post-69168807451675848222010-12-06T18:43:00.000-08:002010-12-16T21:47:50.336-08:00Part 2: Improvised heat treating techniques for knives & tools.<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The basic equipment needed is as follows:</span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Fire pit:</span> <span style="color: white;">this can be made in several configurations. </span></span></strong><br />
<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Some use old brake drums etc.. However I have found that a</span></strong><br />
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<span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">clay patio </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">fireplace (with a smoke stack) works perfectly and </span></strong></span><br />
<span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">holds up surprisingly well. Although </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">in a pinch anything that will </span></strong></span><br />
<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">hold hot coal will do; such as a grill, hole in the ground etc... </span></strong><br />
<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The size of the fire pit should be no less than 18" x 18".</span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> <span style="color: white;">Don't duct air in underneath the coal as this produces more </span></span></strong><br />
<span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">heat than is actually needed </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">for this process. If more heat is needed</span></strong></span><br />
<span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">simply fan the surface of the coal from above until the </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">desired </span></strong></span><br />
<span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">color/temp </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">is reached.</span></strong></span><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Fuel for the fire:</span> <span style="color: white;">Seasoned Red Oak is absolutely the best and should</span></span></strong><br />
<span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">always be used when </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">available; if it is not; common seasoned Oak </span></strong></span><br />
<span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">will </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">work. </span></strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> <span style="color: white;">Cut the wood into small pieces in </span></span></strong></span><strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">the 3" x 3" range. Doing </span></strong><br />
<span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">so will allow it to burn down quicker and more evenly into a nice </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">bed </span></strong></span><br />
<span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">of </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">coal.</span></strong></span><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Handling:</span> <span style="color: white;">Long handle pliers or blacksmiths tongs. The long handle </span></span></strong><br />
<span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">will give a </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">more </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">comfortable working </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">distance from the heat source </span></strong></span><br />
<span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">while maneuvering </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">the steel in the fire pit.</span></strong></span><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Metal bucket:</span> <span style="color: white;">The basic guide is 1gal per pound of steel being </span></span></strong><br />
<span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">quenched. </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">If treating small </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">parts or knives a large metal coffee </span></strong></span><br />
<span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">c</span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">an will work great. </span></strong></span><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Quenching oil:</span> <span style="color: white;">Fresh 15w 40 diesel engine oil has been used to much</span></span></strong><br />
<span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">success </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">although some prefer to use Olive Oil because of it's lower</span></strong></span><br />
<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">flashing point.</span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Cooling rack:</span> <span style="color: white;">Such as an old grill or oven rack. This will be used to </span></span></strong><br />
<span style="color: white;"><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">place </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">the steel on after quenching.</span></strong></span><br />
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<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">ALL Standard personal protection equipment.</span></strong><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"></span>HTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16161678004194351428noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4926867949508815508.post-11487961813805194562010-12-04T21:54:00.000-08:002010-12-16T21:48:05.301-08:00Part 1: Improvised heat treating techniques for knives & tools.<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Just because a high tech furnace is not available that does not mean that one cannot apply a high quality heat treat to steel. One actually need look no further than....</span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">our not so distant past for some very useful techniques. Here we will cover some of the the basics as well as alot of the unspoken hints and tips that you wont find anywhere else. So stay tuned as we cover this topic in depth over the next few posts. - HTS</span></strong>HTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16161678004194351428noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4926867949508815508.post-84935856750160808832010-11-30T20:31:00.000-08:002010-12-18T19:09:17.618-08:00Heat Treating the famous O-1 Tool Steel<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Begin by wrapping the piece in stainless steel tool wrap and leave an extra two inches on each end of the package (This will be for handling purposes). The foil should be double crimped around the edges. Note: be careful to not tear or puncture the wrap!</span></strong><br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong><span style="color: white;">Once wrapped </span></strong><strong><span style="color: white;">place in the furnace and heat to 1450F. Upon reaching this temperature immediately begin timing the soak for 15 to 20 minutes. (Soak time is the amount of time the steel is held at the desired temperature; which is in this case 1450 degrees Fahrenheit)</span></strong></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"> <strong><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Note:</span> <span style="color: white;">soak times will very depending on steel thickness. See formula at the bottom of page.</span></strong></span></span><br />
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<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">When the soak time is complete, very quickly but carefully take the package out with tongs, and hold over a quench tank then snip the end of the package to allow the piece to drop out into the oil. Be sure to have some kind of wire basket already placed in the quench tank to raise and lower the piece in the oil rather than have it lie still. This must be done to ensure a proper quench.</span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">NOTE:</span> <span style="color: white;">For full hardness; it is critical that the piece enter the quenching oil as quickly as possible after taking them from the furnace! </span></span></span></strong><br />
<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">If treating a knife carefully remove it from the tool wrap and quench holding it at a non crucial point such as the rear of the tang making sure to move the blade up and down in the oil as mentioned above for a proper quench.</span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Once the piece has been quenched down to around 125F begin the tempering process. To temper the piece it must be placed back into the furnace at 375F. Allow them to soak for 2 hours then remove the piece and allow it to cool to room temperature. The piece should now be approx hardness 60 RC.</span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> <span style="color: white;">Some have successfully used toaster ovens to complete the tempering cycle.</span></span></span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> <span style="color: white;">for added stability and a little extra hardness the blades can be placed in dry ice for one hour.</span></span></span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> <span style="color: white;">The oil should be warm and thin at the time of quenching it should also have a safe flash point. Some prefer to use olive oil rather than petroleum based quenching oils because of it's higher flash point. It is common practice to have one gallon of quenching oil for each pound of steel. To warm the oil before quenching simply heat a piece of scrap steel and drop it into the oil.</span></span></span></strong><br />
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<strong><strong><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6;"><strong>Note:</strong></span></span><strong> <span style="color: white;">Pre quench soak times can very to some degree. However, c</span></strong></span></span><span style="color: white; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><strong>ommonly one can figure about 1 hour of soak at hardening temperature per inch of steel thickness<br />
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1 inch = 1hour <br />
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1/2 inch = 30mins <br />
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1/4 inch = 15mins <br />
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1/8inch = 7.5mins</strong></span></strong></strong>HTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16161678004194351428noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4926867949508815508.post-43843756949377024202010-11-28T21:10:00.000-08:002010-12-16T21:56:17.515-08:00Heat Treating D2 steel!<span style="color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>To begin... wrap the piece in stainless steel tool wrap and leave an extra two inches on each end of the package (This will be for handling purposes). The foil should be double crimped around the edges. Note: be careful to not tear or puncture the wrap!</strong></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><span style="color: blue;"><strong><span style="color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Once wrapped <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">place in</span> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: white;">the furnace and heat to 1850F. Upon reaching this temperature immediately begin timing the soak for 15 to 20 minutes. (Soak time is the amount of time the steel is held at the desired temperature; which in this case is 1850 degrees Fahrenheit) </span></span></strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Note:</span> <span style="color: white;">soak times will very depending on steel thickness. See formula at the bottom of page.</span></span></strong></span><span style="color: white;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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<span style="color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>When the soak time is complete, very carefully remove the entire package, and place it on a wire rack allowing it to air cool. Once the piece reaches 125F begin the temper process. To temper the piece remove it from the foil wrapper and place it back into the furnace at 950F allowing it to soak for 2 hours. Then remove the piece and allow it to cool to room temperature. </strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: blue; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> <span style="color: white;">Open the oven door and let it be cooling to 950F while the piece is cooling to 125F.</span></strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: blue; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong><span style="color: white;">To begin the second temper place the piece back in the furnace and soak for 2 hours this time at 900F. Once this step is complete remove the piece and allow it to cool. It should now be approx hardness 58-60 RC. </span></strong></span><br />
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<span style="color: blue; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong><span style="background-color: #3d85c6; color: black;">Tip:</span> <span style="color: white;">The piece can be placed in dry ice for an hour this will add some stability and a little extra hardness.</span></strong></span><br />
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<strong><span style="font-family: Arial;"><strong><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="background-color: #3d85c6;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>Note:</strong></span></span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong> <span style="color: white;">Pre quench soak times can very to some degree. However, c</span></strong></span></span><span style="color: white; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><strong>ommonly one can figure about 1 hour of soak at hardening temperature per inch of steel thickness<br />
i.e: <br />
1 inch = 1hour <br />
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1/2 inch = 30mins <br />
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1/4 inch = 15mins <br />
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1/8inch = 7.5mins</strong></span></span></strong></span></strong>HTShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16161678004194351428noreply@blogger.com0